Author: BirdhouseChillies

How, where and when to plant chilli seeds

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Chilli seed packets
Just a small selection of chillies we are growing this year

This is not our first year growing chillies. Over the years we have developed a number of tricks that make things more certain for us. Here are our top ten tips:

  1. Start as early as you dare;
  2. Soak the seeds in black tea;
  3. Chit the seeds on damp kitchen roll before planting;
  4. Warm the seeds as they are chitting;
  5. Use biodegradable pots for the first planting;
  6. Prepare the seed compost and pots ready to receive the germinated seeds;
  7. Keeps pots on a tray with capillary matting;
  8. Warm water from the base;
  9. Weak solution of feed from second week;
  10. Allow as much all round light as possible.

1. When to start germinating?

A real UK chillihead will start in December..no, November…perhaps late October? Hmm, when should we start the UK chilli season? It is really up to you. Seed packets state that February is a good time to sow. Many chilli growers will go for it just before Christmas. For us, it is a lovely way to start the New Year. Ordering seeds, waiting for them to arrive and getting the equipment ready is a tonic for the soul in the dark, wet month of January. And, at the Birdhouse, unless you want glitter as a soil addition it is best to avoid combining Christmas chaos and chilli seedlings.

A further element to consider is which species of chillies you will be growing. The more common types of Chinense, Anuum, Baccatum, Pubescens and Frutescens are all somewhat different in their needs and growing habits.

Chinense have a long growing season (over 100 days from sowing to ripe fruit). They can take up to 6 weeks with a higher heat to germinate. germination can be erratic if the temperature fluctuates too much. Chinense love consistent heat to flower and fruit well. The longer germination time is partially why we chit before planting: just so we can see what is going on. Start as early as you can accommodate to take advantage of the full Summer and Autumn sunshine.

Anuum are less fussy. You could get away with planting much later and still get a reasonable crop. Too early and you may end up with leggy plants on your hands. Anuum such as Jalapenoes will take a lower grower temperature if need be.

Baccatum are quick to pop, quick to grow true leaves and, later on, will happily grow outside well until the first frosts. Although they will go leggy if not given good light levels early on, they can be topped. This results in extra branches laden with glorious glossy chillies.

Pubescens are happy at lower temperatures. Perfect for the UK climate. They even have a little furry coat to keep them warm! No temperature demands for germination, happy to grow in a heated greenhouse in the early months and will keep fruiting and ripening outdoors well into mid frosts. A cloche would perhaps keep them going over Christmas.

Not sure about Frutescens as these are a first for the Birdhouse this year.

2. Preparing the seeds

Chilli seeds are encased within a tough outer shell. This protects them until the conditions are right to germinate. In a natural environment, seeds would perhaps pass through a bird’s digestive system. The digestive acids break the tough outer seed case down. We do not feed our seeds to our chickens, reclaim them and then plant them.

Some people do use a bird poo solution (yuck) to replicate this process. Other folk use a light sand paper to physically scarify the seed case. We soak our seeds in a black tea for 24 hours. This is a chemical scarification that starts the germination process nicely. It seems to increase the germination rate too.

Tannins in black tea scarify the chilli seed case, making it easier to germinate

3 & 4. Where to germinate your seeds

We start our chilli seeds off in a no soil environment. We repurpose takeaway containers, line them with damp kitchen towel and then place the seeds on the paper. Spray them with water, close the lid on two corners and put them in heated propagator. Above 20 degrees if possible. This means we can keep eye on germination. As each seed pops we put it into its own little labelled paper pot and move it out of the heated propagator to a sunny window sill. Some seeds take a little longer than others. Certain types (you know who you are) can take an age.

This year we might move them straight to the heated greenhouse. The temperature in their needs to be regulated though as anything under 10 degrees will check the teeny tiny seedlings. Not much point in planting nice and early if the seedlings sit a sulk for a month!

Seeds in the propagation zone

5 & 6. What to plant your seedlings into

Biodegradable pots are for us. Well, for the first pot anyway. There are a wide variety of bio pots available but we make newspaper ones ourselves. Grandfather Birdhouse’s copious stash of weekly papers is put to good use: firelighters, paper pots, chicken house flooring, art projects and cleaning the windows. Eventually, it all ends up steaming on the Birdhouse compost heap.

Why do we use bio pots? We pot the newspaper pots directly on into the next size pots when the roots show through the bottom. Potting up into bigger pots can result in wilted plants, leaves dying off and checked growth. Using biodegradable pots means those first roots are able to stay exactly how they have grown with minimal disruption. And, of course, it saves money, recycles materials and saves on waste.

We make pots in batches. You can really get a rhythm going. We have over 250 seeds currently chitting in our Old Faithful propagator. Must crack on with making the 2020 pots as surely there will be a seed popping soon.

Soon (hopefully) there will be little pots warming up on our sunny South facing windowsills, filled with fluffy soil, ready to receive the germinated seedlings.

We use a straightforward seed compost mixed with about 20% perlite to avoid everything getting too cold and soggy. No nutrients will be needed initially as we will be adding a light feed as soon as those seed leaves are up and above the soil. Until then the plant can feed itself from its own store.

Paper pots and pot maker
Homemade paper pots, minimises root disruption when potting on

7 & 8 & 9. Water, warmth, food, and light for the seedlings

Once the germinated seeds are ensconced in their petit paper pots the emphasis shifts to keeping them at a good temperature, in the best light and watered well.

Drenching the baby plants with a showering of freezing cold tap water is not going to get good results. Place the pots on trays with capillary matting. Keep the trays in a warm space, near a radiator or in the gentle winter sun. Water them only when needed. Use warm water, from the base.

After a week or so, introduce a weak feed to the water. Nothing too high in Nitrogen yet as we want strong healthy roots and structure rather than mega leaf growth at this point in the year. Our aim is to keep the plants as short and dark green as possible.

chilli seedlings in homemade paper pots
Lined up along the window sill, maximum light access.

10. Let there be light.

We have wonderful South facing windows. Excellent. We have space for around 100 seedling. Good stuff. We are currently growing around 250 seedling. Hmm, not such great news.

How can we meet this challenge? Well, Father Christmas provided a set of grow lights. We need to investigate how to set these up and get them working best for the maximum number of plants.

Other than that, it will be the daily task of turning pots to avoid the plant stems lengthening to reach for the light. And then the rotation of trays so no plants are left furthest away from the windowsill for more than a day. It takes some time to do this but it really does give us a chance to look at each plant, check water levels, spot any fungus, remove any damped off plants and spy any early aphids.

And there we have it…the plan for the next few weeks. Now, come along seeds, let’s see some action!

Madame Jeanette and Trinidad perfume chillies
Madame Jeanette and Trinidad perfume chillies from 2019

Fermenting Jar of Yellow Chillies

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The first fermenting jar of 2019. Chillies are a mix of homegrown Madame Jeanette, homegrown Trinidad Perfume and Peach Habaneros from the South Devon Chilli Farm. Even the scraps are stunning.

Take off the stalks, half the chillies, scrape out the seeds and pith. Place in a sterilised jar. Add peeled garlic, salt and water. Screw on lid. Place a plate underneath. Shake twice a day. Wait for the bubbles.

Early Summer chilli plant progress report

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Having sown most seeds in January it is just lovely to watch the plants flourish and fruit. We pickled our first jar of jalapeños last night and they are nearly finished already. That’s how it should be.

Everything is looking pretty fresh and green, despite recent erratic weather patterns. Lots of flowers on display and plenty of young pods. All protected, populated and pollinated by a veritable army of ladybirds partnered with a daily fly by from the hoverfly squadron. A few Annuums are dropping flowers, a few are giving up flowering now they’ve produced a pod or two but on the whole all is well in the Birdhouse greenhouse (and now surrounding area).

Time for an update on each plant.

The Originals…in order of flowering

Golden Greek Pepperoncini

These have been very quick to mature, flower, fruit and ripen. The chillies are ripening to a vibrant orange The first round of chillies have been picked and ripened in the fruit bowl. They are almost glowing orange. The next flush of chillies are still on the plant, ripening in the sun. This is a slower process and includes a chocolate brown stage. Not sure where the ‘golden’ comes from, maybe another stage of ripening?

They are planted in 10L flower buckets from our local Co-op. Each plant is about 60cm high and will hopefully still keep flowering and fruiting. Tasty little chilli with very little heat, even with the seeds left in. We used them to freshen up a guacamole and ended up adding a hotter chilli for heat too.

Sweet Banana – is this really a chilli?

They really do look like bananas. They have as much heat as a banana too. Not that they are meant to be spicy really. The plants are outside in 10L pots. The first pods have been removed to encourage further flowering. Not much second round flower action yet.

Jalapeno – an oldie but a goodie

Known to endure cooler temperatures better than lots of other types of chillies, our Jalapenos are situated outside the greenhouse and have been for some time. They are currently on the second batch of pickings. And are now in a brief interlude before fulfilling their potential in 10L buckets – we hope.

Poblano – a dark beauty

Another early to fruit type. The trouble with leaving the very first few flowers on is that once they set and start to grow no more flowers are produced. The first couple of fruit from each plant have been picked and a new round grown and picked already.

Contrary to many chillies’ tastes, the Poblano plants do not like the heat and are quick to wilt in protest if they are even a little dry or above 20 degrees. The first Poblano fruit to set was scorched through the greenhouse glass. They too are now growing outside and seem much happier. The nighttime temperatures are well above 5 degrees these days so no real problem there. It would be nice to think they plants would grow bigger and more tree like. They are in 10L pots so have space to bulk up. The pods could bulk up too.

Padron – get that frying pan hot and ready!

The Padrons have been growing, flowering, fruiting and repeating for some time now. They were the first plants to move outside and the first into the 10L buckets. They are looking really settled, no sign of flower drop and are casually leaning on the outside of the greenhouse, just hanging out, doing their thing. Best pan fried with a crush of sea salt, perfect with paella.

Espelette type -a favourite in the house so far

We are loving these plants. Tall and covered in the largest white flowers. They have stunning heart shaped leaves. The first few fruit have been picked already to encourage the plants to produce more flowers. No ripe pods yet.

They are planted into 5L pots and are heading towards a metre in height already. Might pop them in the 10Ls and feed them up a bit to encourage roots as well and fruits. Can’t wait to see how they end up. We’re hoping to dry and grind these into a tasty paprika.

Guajilo – bigger fruit than expected

The plants were amongst the first to flower and fruit. Again, the first fruit have been removed to encourage further flowering. These chillies can be eaten green and so it is fine to keep picking. One surplus plant has been planted out into our eldest daughter’s garden. It seems to be loving life there. Most of the greenhouse plants are nearing a metre high and are in 7.5L pots.

Cherry Bomb – da bomb!

The Bombs are certainly da bomb! There are currently residing in 5L pots and are a whopping 75cm full of flower and fruit. Their flowers are white and profuse. Not too many of them have dropped. They just seem to get taller and taller.

Last year we grew Big Bomb and their final pots were only 3L. Aiming for a bigger crop this year as the whole family love these sweetie chillies. Can’t wait for them to ripen so we can get pickling.

Aleppo – Nigella’s fave

A speedy deliverer. And yet, not as good as anticipated. The plants are smallish, 30cm in 2L pots. Roots are only just peeking through the bottom so they have not been potted up. Flowering has slowed now 3-5 fruit have set on each plant. The fruit is turning black in the sun, it would be great to see some red showing through soon. Might try potting on to 3L to see if that gives them a new lease of life.

Cow Horn – crazy curls

These plants were super quick to mature to the point of flower and fruit. We have picked one round of crazy curled pods already. Again, this strategy is to encourage further growth and flowering. At the moment there are very few flowers. It seems after 3-5 fruit have set no more buds come along. Hopefully some will grow now the first fruit have been removed.

It was so exciting to see the first flowers this year that it was just too heart wrenching to remove them. Perhaps next year we will be brave enough to pick off the first few buds to allow the plants to mature before concentrating on pod production.

Rocoto – home grown

So pleased that we decided to plant these home produced seeds. The plants behave in such a different way. They are hairy sprawlers with flowers all over. There are far more pods than you think. They are sitting in 3L pots at the moment. The will be planted into larger boxes that currently have first early potatoes in them. Dry weather = slow potatoes. Not long now my purple beauties! The plants could really rocket once they are in their new homes.

Habanero Primero Red – first of the Chinenses

What an excellent plant. They are in 3L pots (although they may be potted on on today as more soil/root while we are away will be better for them) 30cm high but also 30cm wide. They are sprawling, branched and laden with flower and fruit. Must give them a little blood, fish and bone in the compost mix to keep the whole plant going. Lots of Potassium is all very well but there are plenty of growing days left in the season, it not all about the fruit quite yet. Looking forward to tasting these when they are ripe.

Scotch Bonnets – or are they?

So, these prized plants are not what we thought they were. Our 2018 Scotch Bonnet were just the best: so glossy, nail polish perfect scarlet, fragrant and hot. Right up our street!

There were no plans to repeat any of the same plants from 2018 to 2019 but on the 7th of January we gave in and ordered a solitary pack of Red Scotch Bonnet seeds from the South Devon Chilli Farm. We had already placed an order with them. Extra P&P was paid but we didn’t care. We were thrilled to think that after nearly a full year of growing we would, yet again, have these wonderful fruit in our lives. Hands were rubbed in anticipation.

Not to be! Look at those flowers: Baccatum if ever there has been one. Look at those pods: Bishops Crown, that’s what they are! Fuming doesn’t even begin to describe it! Funny, checking records, these seeds germinated in five days, whereas all our other Chinense types took nearly twice that. The signs were there but we missed them. Should have ordered another pack of SBs from elsewhere at that point. Note to selves: always source two pack of Scotch Bonnets, from two different sources!

Being true chilli heads, we are keen to see what the Bishops Crown brings to the party. Mild is what the forum says. Hurumph is what we say. They’re in 5L pots, about 75cm tall, branched and they have about 10% flower drop.

Bubblegum 7 -such different flowers

The plants are showing chinense characteristics: determinate plants with branches covered in lime flowers. These flowers have very stubby little petals. Fruit looks like it is setting. In 3L pots but will soon be into a final 5L.

A kindly neighbour took pity on me and gifted two 7 Pot Yellow plants. These are just about showing clusters of buds. Perhaps they will have the same diddy petals?

Tobago Seasoning – only just figured out that ‘seasoning’ means ‘not hot’

Growing well. They were chitted 10 days later than everything else so are therefore forgiven for being 10 days or so behind. Flowers are popping out all along the stems. Nice. The first few pods are longer and thinner than I had imaged but no worries.

Trinidad Perfume – slowly does it

A true Chinense type, slow growing, almost to the point you think something is wrong, maybe you offending these plants somehow? But no, eventually the buds appear and then a flower or two open. And that’s where we’re at. The new growth is pale, lime green. Nothing wrong though, it’s just the way they are.

These plants are really only just getting going. They are still in 3L pots, and may stay there for the season as there are no roots showing through the holes. The plants are just approaching 50cm tall.

Madame Jeanette – pretty lady!

She lives in 5L pots and she is really putting out those flowers. No pods yet but it won’t be long. No flower drop. One of the five plants has speckled variegated leaves. Very pretty indeed.

Serrano – freebie seeds

Residing in 3L pots, approximately 60cm tall, the Serranos are casually doing their thing. The seeds were sent as a freebie and so far they are doing A OK. We have three plants, one is really tall, dark and hairy. One is very bushy, covered in flowers and little fruit. And the other is nowhere near as advanced in height or maturity. It just goes to show how each plant is a little different.

Mustard Habanero – the sole survivor

Hang on in there Colonel Mustard, you can do it! At the chitting/germination stage these seeds were left without water too long and dried up. Only a couple survived. They then got their roots enmeshed with the capillary matting they were resting on. And then there was one. Only in a 2L pot and 25cm tall it could have done without me dropping another plant on top of it (it’s crowded in the greenhouse these days!) It’s been a rocky road but he’s surviving – just.

Lots of tiny buds dotted along its remaining stems. Interested to see the pale purple, yellow, white and mustard fruit stages.

Orange Habanero – must grow more of these next year

Another victim of the roots/capillary matting issue. Only one survivor. Covered in flowers and we cannot wait to taste that wonderful fruity fragrant heat. Bring on the pods!

The New Collection…

Err where did these all come from?!

Birds Eye – perfect for The Birdhouse, surely?

It would have been just plain rude to offload surplus plants onto a neighbour without reciprocating and adopting a few extra chilli babies. Birds Eye is one such adoptee. Planted a little later than our chillies it is yet to reach flowering stage but the teeny tiny buds are already visible in clusters a top the good green foliage. It is currently 50cm in a 3L pot.

Kashmiri – classic choice

Another gift from our neighbour. Looking good in its 3L pot. Lots of small leaves. Ready to bust out some buds any minute now.

Ring of Fire – quick to flower

Given that this was a gifted chilli, sown a month or so later than our early chillies, it is already smothered in white flowers. 50cm in 3L pot. You go girl!

Carolina Reaper -of course we’ve got one

We’ve had a bit of crinkling on new growth, perhaps aphids, perhaps stress, who knows! Tiny buds formed and ready to grow, grow, grow. Leaves are a slight pale colour. 3L pot and about 25cm tall. Expecting each ‘branch’ to elongate and fill with flowers pretty soon.

Bhut Jolokia – super hot!

Healthy, glossy leaves. Strong growth spikes, filled with small buds. All good. 25cm in 3L pot.

Naga Morich – completes the set of super hots

A lovely pale green plants with lots of potential. Ready to pop out a load of buds. POW! 3L pot, 25cm tall.

Dedo de Mocha – one from my mother

My mother is a very good plantswoman, her allotment thrives and we all eat well from her hard work. However, when it comes to chillies she has got the kiss of death. I received five sorry-looking Dedo de Moca plants from her. Planted in soggy, multipurpose compost, Their four leaves were streaked yellow from malnutrition and they sulked. Oh, how they sulked.

This was months ago and they have finally perked up. From Internet research I see they are Baccatum and meant to branch, potentially reaching four foot and be prolific. We shall see. Given their rude start in life they may not fulfil that potential.

They are showing signs of good flowers and healthy green growth though. They were topped so are bushing out slightly. The flowers should be lovely looking, maybe with green or ochre spots. 2L pots for now but will attempt to get them into something larger.

Gogorez – what even is this?

Another inherited pepper plant from my mother. Is it a chilli? Did the pack of seeds come free with a magazine? Has she labelled it correctly? Have I labelled it correctly? Ah, Google. It is a sweet pepper with a climbing habit. Might send it outside to climb up the shed then! No room in the greenhouse for your types Signor Gogorez.

Machu Pichu – a garden centre rescue

When visiting our local garden centre Machu Pichu potted chillies were being sold for £4 each. They were tempting – as all chilli plants are. We left them behind. A couple of weeks passed and we returned (more potting grit required). There they were, on the bargain shelf, looking decidedly sorry for themselves. £1 each said the label. We decided to risk three. When we got to the till the lovely lady offered us a further discount of ’50p for all three’ as they were looking so rough. Crispy, dirty leaves. Sodden compost and virtually no new growth nodes. We’ll take them!

They’ve all been topped and one is showing signs of growing well. The others are surviving but I’m just letting them doing their own thing. Hopefully they’re dealing with the roots first and once that is under control they can start to take on leaves and maybe even flower. I know they say stress can be good for chilli production but we’re not holding our breath.

Another quick Google and we find out they are large chillies, medium in heat, smokey, fruity and chestnut brown in final colour. 70-90 days until chilli time. An OK promise for 50p.

And there we have it…

The full compliment of Birdhouse chillies in all their glory. A further update will ensue at harvest time.

NPK values for chilli plants

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We humans are fussy eaters. Chillies are not. Chillies will take whatever meal you throw at them and, feast-or-famine, they will still grow, flower and fruit. Mostly.

However, the subtle science of feeding chilli plants well is a true art form that takes many a Summer to perfect. The variations of an ever-changing, seasonal menu for your chilli babies are as endless as Annabel Karmel recipes for troublesome toddlers. A good diet will hopefully produce a bounty of flavoursome, aromatic & glorious chillies to make your friends go oooh and ahhh. Much the same effect as when your young child selects an olive instead of a chicken nugget in front of an audience of NCT peers.

What does a chilli like to eat?

Let’s stick with the core ingredients for now: NPK, or Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium to the uninitiated. Pretty much all feeds, fertilisers, composts, sprays, granules, enhancers, hydroponic potions contain these wonder components. As do most soils around the world. These macronutrients are the backbone of a good chilli plant diet. The most basic of fertilisers will provide an NPK ratio on its label. But just what are they and what do they do?

Nitrogen (N)

Why is Nitrogen necessary?

Think healthy leaves.

It is a key component of chlorophyll, the green stuff in plant cells. Chlorophyll uses sunlight to convert water and carbon dioxide into sugars as plant energy. Nitrogen is also a major component of protoplasm, the sappy contents of plants cells. Protoplasm is the vessel which holds trace minerals throughout the plant.

What does the correct supply of Nitrogen do to your plants? Healthy, green, lush plants. Strong stems and perky leaves. Speedy new shoots and flower bud formation.

What does the wrong balance of Nitrogen do to your plants? Too much Nitrogen will cause rapid growth, causing the plant to over commit. High Nitrogen feeds will inhibit flowering. Not enough Nitrogen and growth will be slow and the plant will end up stunted.

Traditional growers will add Nitrogen to their plants through blood meal, composted manure, composted coffee grounds. Blood meal is high in Nitrogen (12%).

Phosphorus (P)

Why is Phosphorus necessary?

It’s all about those roots and fruits baby!

Phosphorus is essential for plant cell division and development of new tissue. Think about when your chilli seedling is just getting going. All those new leaves, all that stem and root to grow, maintain and look after. Phosphorus is the ultimate support partner. It is in charge of seed development and as a result, timely flower formation, good sized and uniform fruit development and maturity.

What does the correct supply of Phosphorus do to your plants? Get the phosphorus levels right and you can expect strong early growth; plants reaching maturity earlier and roots showing through the bottom of the pot quickly. When potting on the first time, a good root system will be visible. It can also stimulate tillering, shoots springing from the bottom of the original stalk. making bushier plants.

What does the wrong balance of Phosphorus do to your plants? An excess of phosphorus in chilli plants can cause leaf issues, ending in leaf death. Too little Phosphorus and the plants may just not mature. In a few more detailed trials, it seems that less capsaicin and less fructose was found in plants that grew and fruited with lower levels of phosphorus. Not what is intended at all!

Bonemeal is high in Phosphorus (18%). Hoof and Horn is even higher (29%) Phospohrus is tricky to uptake, especially at low temperatures, low pH or in conditions with excessive iron in the soil.

Potassium (K)

Why is Potassium necessary?

Hearty growth and protection is the name of Potassium’s game.

Potassium regulates the closing and opening of stomata, and so can affect the amount of CO2 supply to the plant. CO2 is essential for photosynthesis and energy production. Low Potassium=low energy. Potassium plays a major role in the regulation of water movement within plants, in the roots and again the stomata. Essential transportation of nutrients, water and other minerals are also dependent on Potassium. Potassium is also a major player in cell wall thickening. This means that stems are stronger and all cells are less susceptible to disease.

Potassium has been proven to increase the likelihood of fruit setting in chillies. Not more flowers but definitely more fruit set.

What does the correct supply of Potassium do to your plants? Generally healthy plants with good tolerance to changes in environmental factors. Good drought and cold resistance in chillies. Allows fruit to develop and set well.

What does the wrong balance of Potassium do to your plants? A sad, stunted, yellowing plant will be on your hands if it is lacking in Potassium. More susceptible to drought, cold, pests as it will have thin cell walls. Less likely to grow quickly with strong stems. Waste products are not removed well, with yellowing of the leaves, ultimately ending in leaf drop. When seedlings first emerge they are vulnerable to damping off. Correct potassium levels at this stage can mean more seedings survive.

Potassium is linked to many growth enzymes in plants. Get the balance wrong and growth can be stunted. Too much Potassium may inhibit uptake of Nitrogen and Phosphorus as well.

Seaweed is a traditional plant treatment containing high Potassium. As is a more modern banana tea.

Is that it? Get the NPK value right and the chillies will be perfect?

Well, yes. And, no. Getting the NPK values balanced correctly for the plant’s needs at key points in the growing season is a huge, important task. BUT there are other factors too though. Other macronutrients (Sulphur, Magnesium and Calcium), micronutrients (Iron, Boron, Chlorine, Manganese, Zinc, Copper, Molybdenum and Nickel), micro-organisms, micro rhizomes, humidity, pH, pests, light levels, leaf quantity and size, pests, electronic conductivity of water, air flow and music choice.

The factors are myriad. Plenty more Googling to be done.

Homegrown Jalapeno chillies, the first of the season
Homegrown jalapeños, the first of the season

The science of feeding your chillies is in your hands. Maybe that weekly slosh of tomato feed needs rethinking?

If you found this article useful, then check out our guide on whether it’s possible to overfeed your chilli plants …

Time to shed some light on the chillies

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It’s that time of year where the sun is lovely & warm and the nights are not too chilly. We’re racing towards longest day: action stations everyone.

The Birdhouse greenhouse is brimming with leafy specimen. No longer a cocooned sanctuary from the Night King but a claustrophobic bubble isolating the chilli babies from the real world. Time for the babies to grow UP and for the bubble wrap to come DOWN. It has served its insulating purpose well but now it is shading a little too much; stopping the auto ventilation window doing its thing; trapping pollinators and taking up precious ceiling height. Roll it up for next year.

Suddenly, the whole space is flooded with clear light. Wonderful.

  • Bubble wrap before
  • And after
  • All clear

The light issue continues…

A quick stock take reveals that we are seriously running out of space. How this has happened is beyond us but it seems to be a phenomenon known well to Chilliheads across the land. Each season we go through a number of cullings. Precious plants are sorted into ‘keepers’ and ‘the rest’. And yet, despite this harsh practice, there still seem to be more pots than ever before.

We sorted at chitting/germination point. Some seeds just didn’t look right and didn’t get potted up into wee paper pots. The compost heap was the destination for these leggy seedlings. The next couple of rounds of sorting happened at potting on stages. Weedy plants, non-thrivers or just varieties where we had too many plants were all thinned out.

The thinnings will populate our local school Summer Fete’s plant stall. They have been potted into non-conformist pots that we do not wish to keep for re-use; kept outside in temperatures of nearly zero; unceremoniously plonked into multi-purpose compost and barely kept alive on a lean diet of fresh air and rain water. They are, however, tall and flowering away, so all is good. They should sell well!

And now, we should be at the point where the perfect number of plants has been achieved. And how many do we have? 110 to be exact. We couldn’t possibly manage with less that that number of plants.

110 plants and counting

But hang on a mo, there STILL doesn’t seem to be space for them all in the greenhouse. We are having to utilise the floor for trays of plants. This is not ideal as the light levels are lower down there. Rotation of plants is tricky but absolutely necessary. On top of the overcrowding issue, lots are yet to go into their final (bigger) resting pots. So after all that sorting there are still too many plants.

Family, neighbours and friends beware, you will have to adopt some chilli babies…Momma’s about to get mean.

Meanwhile, in happier news, some of the bigger, earlier fruiters are just getting on with their thing. Golden Greek Pepperoncini is smothered with flower and fruit. Oh, and the roots are out the bottom again. Time to reach for the soldering iron and make some holes in the bottom of those flower buckets because potting on is in the diary for the weekend AGAIN.

  • Golden Greek Pepperoncini…
  • …the first of his name

Begone Fiendish Frosts

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UK frosts are a damnable thing…dominating our lives for weeks on end, with never the same frost twice. Omnipresent during the darker months. No way a chilli plant is growing out there…not a snowball’s chance in Hell.

In early Spring, just when the birds are a-nesting, Jack Frost STILL manages to sneak up on you at the most unexpected times. You assume he’s gone, but then, BOO, there he is again! In the air, on the ground, feathered across the windows, wiping out blossom and melting soft new growth left, right and centre. He’s a real pain in the backside.

Luckily things start to change: the mercury creeping up the thermometer gives us a glimpse of light at the end of the tunnel. This cold WILL NOT last forever, we CAN do this.

Some nights are mild, then back to cool, then a few nights are colder. Watch out for the occasional late season sub zero arctic blaster though. No predictability leaves us doing the dance of a thousand plants, in and out we go. In the hope to harden off but not kill off.

Suddenly, ta-dah, there are no more frosts and all is forgotten (and forgiven). We go forward to salad days.

In our corner of Hampshire, the second week of May is scheduled as the last frost this year- pah, as if it is that easy to predict! Still, it does seem the worst is over and we can finally get on with the task of growing some chillies. And growing they are….

All plants are in the greenhouse or outside. Feeding and watering when the leaves look droopy. A twice daily check for aphids and an invitation to a ladybird or two over for dinner if any ‘phids are found.

Buds aplenty, some flowers are open, a few chillies have set and most plants look pretty happy with life.

  • Jalapeno flowering away, and a very small chilli
  • Golden Greek Pepperoncini, first out of the blocks

Long may it last.

Tangy Prawn and Coconut Curry

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It’s a bank holiday weekend and we are cooking on an Aga. Life is pretty good. So, what to cook? OK, how about something with chilli? Sure thing!

It’s Aga time!

Gather and prepare the ingredients before you start as the cooking of this dish is fast and furious. Make your chilli and spice selection. Will it be chilli powder, fresh chilli, chilli paste, chilli flakes, chilli sauce, homemade spice mix, fermented chilli paste. In the ingredient list below is our choice. Go with whatever flavours suit your mood, palette and heat tolerance. The choice is all yours!

Choose wisely.
  • sunflower oil
  • 2 red onions, sliced
  • a spoonful of gochujang (such an amazing, yummy product, adding depth and umami to dishes like this)
  • 2 cloves of garlic, sliced
  • a thumb of ginger, peeled and grated
  • a chilli of your choice, sliced
  • small handful of garam masala (we ground our own for this recipe with coriander seed, cumin, fennel seed, white peppercorn, lots of cardamon, cloves and cinnamon)
  • a finger of fresh turmeric, finely grated
  • 4 tomatoes, chopped roughly
  • 2 tsp of runny honey
  • a handful of desiccated cocount
  • a can of coconut milk
  • bunch of coriander, chopped
  • a whole lot of prawns (100 g per person)
  • green pepper, sliced
  • pak choi, leaves and stems chopped
  • a lime for squeezing

Now you’re ready to cook up one tasty prawn dish.

  • Heat a wide pan, big enough to fit the entire dish in it. We opted for a 30cm almond Le Creuset shallow casserole, needs must and all that.
  • Add the sunflower oil and onion. Fry until the onions start to take on a little colour.
  • Add ginger, garlic, chilli and turmeric. Fry for 30 seconds. Don’t let the garlic burn now. That’s why we tend to slice garlic, not crush. Less chance of burning.
  • Add garam masala, gochujang, honey and tomatoes. Allow it all to smoosh together.
  • Now for the coconut. Chuck in the dessicated stuff and let it absorb the liquid from the tomatoes. Then give the can of coconut milk a good shake and tip it in. You might need to scrap the more solid part out if the can is cold.
  • Let the sauce come up to a bubble and thicken slightly.
  • Thrown in the peppers, pan choi stalks and the prawns.
  • When the prawns are pink, stir the pan choi leaves in and serve.
  • Add a squeeze of lime and a sprinkle of coriander leaves.
Ready to be served on a bed of spicy noodles. Just squeeze on some lime and garnish with coriander sprinkles.

Topping for a second time

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We’ve learned a lot from the first topping…

Different varieties of chilli like topping in different degrees. Some just don’t seem to understand what to do and others get it right first time.

A good example of a slow learner is Poblano. At the initial topping, Poblano was topped carefully to leave four true leaves. All seemed well. However, each of the plants has grown just one (or maybe two) new branch from the leaf node. This has then become the main growing stem again. It’s like the Auxin only made it down as far as that node and stopped there. Result: minimal branching, one main growing point AGAIN.

Topped Poblano, falling back into its old habits: one growth spike, minimal branching.

The best in class when it comes to branching out has got to be the Chinense group. Again, they were topped to leave four true leaves. This was difficult as they were tightly packed. Every single node has sprouted a new branch. Result: lush, dense plants with plenty of growing branches to bear lots of fruit.

Just look at all those new shoots. The Chinenses may be slow to grow but when they do it is ALL GOOD.

Espelette seems to know what to do with itself once its top has been whipped off. The difference is obvious looking at plants that have and haven’t been topped. Well done Espelette. We salute you.

Left: topped plant with branching at every leaf node. Right: taller plant, no branching, beginning to show a Y at the top. Flower buds.

Overall, topping HAS resulted in the chilli plants growing extra branches, lower down, before they form the Y. It has delayed flower formation and therefore flower drop or fruit developing too soon. Sometimes chillies forget to produce more flowers if they have an early fruit or two.

The Demon Scissor Snipper has been back. A second topping has occurred. Any plant that had not yet formed a Y has had its new branches topped too. Mwwwhhhhhaaaaarrr!

Why? In aid of even bushier plants, with more flowers, less chance of branch snapping and plants that topple over. And of course, many more chillies!

Pinching out, plants, progress and potting on.

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The last few weeks have been busy. Spring has finally sprung in Hampshire. The garden is waking up and our Family and other Animals are demanding attention. The chillies have been quietly doing their thing on the window sill. After a sunshine-tastic Easter Bank Holiday it is time for a progress report.

Potting on…

Roots were starting to appear at the bottom of the smaller pots. A sure sign it is time to pot on. Not too big too soon or the plants will spend all their time growing new roots to fill the massive pot and forget to grow up top.

The same mix of soil was used. Seemed to work well for the first round of pots so why change it? No need for staking any plants yet. This time last year the Jalapeños and Big Bombs were already needing a small stake to stop them flopping over. Topping has helped the plant stability.

86 plants potted on. Very satisfying.

As a result of topping…

The plants have responded well to their growing tip being pinched out. Some plants were showing signs of branching anyway but others, less natural spreaders, have really bunched up and sent out side shoots galore. Excellent work. Although none of the topped plants have flower buds they all have many, many more growth points, rather than one leading spike.

A comparison of topped and not topped plants show significant differences (significant to us, anyway) Topping has slowed flower development, created more leaves, bushier and shorter plants. The non-topped plants are destined to be sold at a Summer Fete. They are tall, flowering plants with big leaves. They should do well in their new homes.

  • Not topped 7 Pot Bubblegum
  • Topped 7 Pot Bubblegum
  • Not topped Aleppo, with flower buds
  • Topped Aleppo

The late-to-be-sown Rocoto plants have just been topped. They are rapid growers and have a good number of true leaves. Snip snip snip. Time to bush out.

Last year the solo Rocoto plant we grew was a real pain in the greenhouse. Sprawling and brittle, it decided it needed other plants to support it. This made moving them around almost impossible. It was definitely worth the hassle (as is clear from the last minute seed planting) but there is nothing wrong with attempting to keep them more compact this year.

Rocoto chilli plants freshly topped.

Moving up to the greenhouse…

The plants been up in our heated, bubble wrapped greenhouse for nearly a week and the results are good. All round light, controlled temperature and gentle air flow has really allowed the plants to flourish. We’ve been trying to keep the temperature above 15 degrees at night, so far no problem, despite outdoor temperatures hovering around zero. Temperatures during the day are less than perfect. It can often be well over 35 degrees in there, with window and door open. We’ve attempted some strategic placing of the hotter types on the South side and the ones that are less tolerant of high temperatures on the North side or somewhat under the shelving. Generally all the plants have added a couple of extra sets of leaves and are looking tip top.

There are a selection of plants that will be gifted to friends and family. These are not necessarily going to be potted on or placed in prime location though, just kept ticking along. They will be left in their first pots or potted on into odds and sods pots. A good chance to clear out any unwanted pots. These are in the cold frame, covered over at night and will be fleeced if a cheeky frost makes a surprise appearance.

Potted on ready to sell at the school Summer Fete.

All the Trinidad Perfume plants are showing good growth but have odd looking central new leaves. Pale and crinkly. Investigations and results will follow.

Trinidad Perfume plants showing signs of nutrient deficiency. Time to investigate.

Time to consider the feeding regime again. Should we increase the Chilli Focus mix to 10mls per litre? Should we go to twice a week or stick with once a week? Is an Epsom Salt spray needed again? And what about banana tea?


How and when to top your chilli plants?

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Our chilli plants are progressing nicely. Lighting has been au natural so they are not the deep, dark, dense green & glossy beasts that some people have lurking beneath their grow lights. Maybe Father Christmas will bring us lights this year, who knows. Until such time, we have our lovely honest plants that have germinated and grown in a UK Winter. As a result, they have slightly petite leaves, longer stem spaces between pairs of leaves and a grassier green colour.

It is time to top.

What does that mean?

You might call topping, pinching out, top pruning or even FIMming (Google that for an explanation). The Chelsea Chop works on the same idea too. They are all pretty much the same thing. Snipping off the growing shoot at the top of an immature chilli plant, before it has split to a Y or produce flower buds.

You can tell if the plants might benefit from a topping if they are leggy. Look at the space between each set of true leaves. Is it bigger than you would like? Does the plant bend a little too much? Are you worried you might snap the plant when you move it around? If yes to these questions then your plant is ready to take its top off.

Why? What are the benefits:

More fruit: the removal of the main apex growing shoot sends the key plant growth hormone, auxin, down the stem to encourage many more growing shoots to develop further down the plant. The result is more growing branches, more flowers and ultimately more fruit. Yay! Better order that chest freezer now.

More compact plants: naturally grown plants can be a little leggy at this time of the year. This can be dealt with in a few ways. When repotting they can be buried up to their seed leaves, encouraging more roots to grow and reducing the height of the plant. Topping also deals with a plant that is undesirably tall early in the season. Don’t be scared now, it will all work out fine.

More stable plants: another benefit to reducing the height of the plant and sending it out sideways will become apparent later the season. Some chilli plants (jalapeño, guajilo, padron to name a few) could reach up to 2 metres tall. By encouraging a bushy style plant you will avoid plants that can be blown over in the wind, or knocked over if they are dry. Single tall stems can be easily snapped, especially ones that have larger fruit. Multi stems not so much. All that hard work could end up for nothing. You might find there is less need for staking too.

Are there any negative effects?

Delayed flowers and fruit: so of course, by topping the lead growth shoot you are delaying the onset of flowers and fruit, essentially checking the plant. If you have a short growing season and are only interested in a smallish crop then go right ahead, let the chilli plant grow as it wants, with little interference, and you’ll be harvesting your chillies a week or two before us toppers. Although, you might find that those early flowers do not hang around to set fruit as the plant is too immature to support them.

Less side shoots: Hmm, maybe. If you have a chilli plant that likes to bush out and make side shoots all on its own then cutting off some of the plant will leave less leaf joins to sprout new shoots. Don’t top if you have all the space in the world. A side shoot variety (padron for example) will just get on with things itself. As long as you are prepared to stake and support as the fruit sets and enlarges.

Does this work for every type of chilli?

The topping principal totally works on any chilli. But, with naturally small, bushy plants, or plants that send out side shoots you might choose not to bother. Our Chinense types are half the height of the larger Annuums at the moment. No need to do anything with them just yet, maybe not at all. They take a lot longer to get on with things. Bactuum types are often spindly and branched anyway. Topping could help keep them more sturdy.

Top left: Trinidad Perfume (Cap. chinense), bottom left: Aleppo (Cap. annuum)

How to top?

Well now, if you are a You Tube kinda chillihead then settle down to watch Veronica Flores explain all things topping. You’ll be rushing off for your tiny scissors in no time at all.

  1. Wait until the plant has between 3-5 sets of true leaves.
  2. Find a nice sharp pair of scissors.
  3. Take a deep breath.
  4. Snip out the main growing shoot. Leaving one or two pairs of true leaves, depending on how brave you are.
  5. Sit back and watch the side shoots grow.
  6. The side shoots can also be topped later on in the season if they are leggy.
  • Select your victim
  • Snip away the growing shoot
  • Wait for the branching side shoots to appear

Five days later and our plants are already showing sign of side shoots.

Do be warned: topping is addictive.

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